Several of these hitches have similar uses. The autoblock is commonly rigged below the rappel device and used as a self-belay while rappelling. The Valdotain is the easiest to release when loaded. In fact, it can be used to descend a tensioned rope and as a self-belay rigged above the rappel device. You wouldn’t want to rig a self-belay above the rappel device with a normal Prusik hitch as it would be difficult to release after loading.

I use the Valdotain for ascending ONLY when I know I will transition to rappelling as it makes the transition very simple. Downside is that the distance between compressing to move and stretching to hold results in some lost efficiency. When I ascend to top out without transitioning, I prefer using the Schwabish or Distel. They each hold as well as a symmetrical Prusik, but are easier to move up the rope after loading.

Note that the VT Prusik is made with an 8mm cord with Technora sheath. Technora is an aramid fiber with a very high melting point. Well, actually, it doesn’t even melt; it chars at around 950 degrees F. This high heat resistance is important when your cord is moving on a rope. The friction point on the rope is constantly changing, but the friction point on the cord is constant. A cord made with nylon or polyester may melt through and suffer catastrophic failure if used for the same applications.

Kevlar is another aramid fiber used in some cords. Like Technora, it has a very high heat resistance, but it is prone to flex fatigue. Repeated bending and knotting will break the fibers and weaken the cord. Technora is a much better choice for our applications.

• Connect rappel device to harness
• Carabiner at end of safety lanyard
• Carabiner at anchor end of Canyon QuickDraw

I’m talking to BlueWater about making some 5-foot pieces for me. Eye sewn on each end. Plan is to create a 2-legged cowstail, similar to a Petzl Spelegyca, with a prusik on the long leg for adjustment.

The photo shows the mini eight rigged as a releasable block. Haven’t rappelled on it or lowered anyone with it, but it seems quick secure even without a safety carabiner added.

The loop going over the neck would be the lowering mechanism. I made a twist in the rope on the brake strand before looping it over the two horns. Kinda like a cleat hitch.

The Totem is a very versatile rappelling device. This Tech Guide describes a few of the most common methods – standard figure eight, vertaco and throttle modes – plus how to add friction on the fly and how to lock off mid-rappel

The rope was rigged on a Scarab in low-friction mode with a Totem rigged behind it in plaquette mode. The Totem provided an auto-locking mechanism. Hands off and the Totem locks off. Lever the bottom end of the Totem to release and lower. Lowering speed can be easily controlled using the lever.

The blue rope in the photos is the anchor rigging. The dark blue cord on the lower left in the upper photo is a prusik standing by for converting the lowering system to a haul.

Rigging the rappelling rope with a releasable block provides some distinct advantages: (1) setting the rope length allows for simple disconnects at the bottom of the rappel, (2) the releasable system can be used to lower a rappeller from the anchor if the rope is not long enough to reach the bottom, or if hair or other material becomes stuck in the rappelling device.

No, this thread is not about bootleg or counterfeit carabiners. This is a gear review of the Pirate Carabiner made by Rock Exotica.

Rock Exotica, if you haven’t heard of them is the company in Clearfield, Utah, famous for manufacturing the Rescuescender, the Arizona Vortex Rescue Tripod and the Omni Block Pulleys used in Aztec Rescue Kits. They are also the company that makes Petzl’s carabiners and now my Totem rappelling and rigging device. The company has its own line of carabiners; most of them steel for rescue applications. They asked me to give their aluminum Pirate carabiner a try for canyoneering. I did and I like it.

The Pirate closely resembles a Petzl Attache. Beefy stock, 0.47 inch diameter. Attache is gold. Pirate is copper-colored. Along the major axis, the Attache is rated to 23 kN, while the Pirate is rated to 26. On the minor axis, the Attache is rated to 7 kN, while the pirate is rated to 11. The Pirate is slightly longer — 4.2 inches — compared to the Attache at 3.9 inches.

While both carabiners are HMS (pear-shaped) the Pirate is slightly longer on the spine side, giving it a bit more D shape. This allows more of the load to settle along the spine, thus the extra major axis strength.

Extra strength on the minor axis can likely be attributed to the fact that the gate barrel screws farther up the nose than the Attache’s barrel.

The Pirate’s gate is slightly offset, allowing for a greater gate opening than the Attache. It also has cute features like a padlock image with an arrow showing the correct direction to turn the gate barrel to lock it and a skull and cross bones that is visible when the carabiner is not locked.

I believe the Pirate is destined to become my new favorite utility carabiner for canyoneering. I have but one reservation in recommending it … At the end of the day when we’re sorting gear it is easy for me to spot my copper-colored Pirate carabiners. It will get complicated again when all of you start using Pirates, too.